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Learning from Mistakes

April 06, 2008

Potato Rye Bread with Onion and Caraway

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I've added a new category - I might also include links to it under the recipe categories. 

The category is "Learning from Mistakes" and I'm including it because in baking and cooking - just like in every other facet of life, we make mistakes, and the best thing to do with a mistake is to learn something from it.

I made this rye bread last month - right after the whole  Corned Beef Project had been completed.  (If you want to read about the entire project, go over on the right and scroll down until you find that heading.  It was about a week and a half long project that I plan to repeat again next year.)  Anyway - I figured I'd make a loaf of rye so I could make a Reuben sandwich for my husband with some of the leftover corned beef.  We had sauerkraut in the freezer, I had cheese, we clearly  had the corned beef, and I could whip up a Thousand Island Dressing easily enough.  All that was needed was the rye.  And I figured rather than just go buy a loaf somewhere, I should (not could, but should) make it myself.

I found a recipe in one of my bread books, I prepped all my ingredients, I took pictures all along the way as I made the bread...it smelled amazing baking in the oven.

And it came out flat.  Flat like an onion and rye loaf of focaccia.  Not exactly the way it should have come out.

And so I was rather irritated with myself because I know I can successfully make a loaf of bread.  So what did I do wrong?

Once I sliced into it, I saw the problem - there was very little lift inside.  It would have been easy to say "well, that's because it was so heavy.  The onion mixture weighed it down."  Except that I couldn't blame the onions.  Really, it was probably because I didn't knead it long enough.

Scratch that.  No "probably" about it.  I rushed one of the most important parts of the bread making process.  And that's why my bread baked off the way it did.

So, lesson learned.  Don't rush the kneading.  Duh.  I know better.  But sometimes we all need reminders, don't we?  At least I do.

And that's the lesson in this post.  But on the good side, the bread tasted fabulous, and I made an awesome, albiet skinny, Reuben for my husband, which he couldn't finish, so I had some, and yeah, it tasted really good. 

Here's the recipe, and pictures, and you can see, at the end, how the bread came out, because I didn't let the gluten develop enough, which meant there wasn't enough structure to support the bread as the yeast did its work to make the dough rise.  Sort of a house of twigs, rather than bricks.

Enough analysis.  Let's bake.

The book I used is Secrets of a Jewish Baker by George Greenstein.  One of the cool features of this book is Chapter Ten - "Twelve Menus:  A Morning of Baking."  Each menu includes about 4-5 different bread recipes, sometimes all yeasted, sometimes a mix of yeasted and quick.  Each menu or program takes somewhere between 2-5 hours to complete, depending on the kinds of breads made.  The programs are all lessons in time management as well - ordinarily when we make bread, we make a loaf or two of A bread.  Or a batch of muffins or a quick bread.  But in the same time frame we might use for that one recipe, instead, if we prep well and pay attention to what we're doing, we can produce multiple loaves.  Pretty impressive, no?

Anyway.  I didn't do a whole morning of baking menu.  I just used the recipe for "Potato Rye Bread with Onion and Caraway."  Why this one?  For one thing, it didn't involve making a sour starter, which I would have had to do the day before.  I wanted the bread for that evening.  This bread is something you make in one day.  Also - I had potatoes and onions because I'd bought more than enough for the Corned Beef and Vegetable dinner.  And I had Caraway seeds because of the Irish Whiskey Soda Bread I'd made for that same meal.  So I was all set.

Here's what you need:

1 medium to small yellow onion, minced

2 T caraway seeds, or more to taste

Pinch salt

Vegetable oil or olive oil, for sauteing

1 cup warm water, preferably potato water

1 pkg active dry yeast

1 medium to small potato, mashed (about 1/2 cup mashed potato)

1 T sugar

1 T shortening

3 T milk powder (omit for nondairy bread) (I didn't use any because I didn't have any.)

2 cups rye flour

1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour

1  1/2 tsp salt

Flour, for dusting work top

Vegetable oil, for coating bowl

Rye flour or cornmeal, for dusting baking sheet.  (I used cornmeal) 

And here's what you do:

Scrub the potato.  Cook, quartered, in 2  1/2 cups boiling water until soft (about 10 minutes).  Let cool, then peel and mash.  (Save the water - you'll use it in the recipe!)

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In a small skillet over medium-low heat, saute the onion, caraway seeds, and the pinch of salt in the oil just long enough to soften the onion. 

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Set aside.

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DOUGH

In a large bowl dissolve the yeast in the warm water.  Add the mashed potato, sugar, shortening, milk powder (if used), flours, and the 1  1/2 tsp salt. 

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Stir with a wooden spoon until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.

(I used my stand mixer and the dough hook.  Unfortunately, I didn't let it run long enough.  Also, I didn't look through the other directions for this recipe - Mr. Greenstein also gives separate measurements and directions for use with a stand mixer.  Another lesson learned.)

Turn out the dough onto a floured work surface and knead.  If the dough is moist and sticky, add more all-purpose flour 1/4 cup at a time.  Knead until elastic (5 to 8 minutes).  The dough will be softer than usual because of the rye flour, and it will tend to feel sticky.

(When using the dough hook and stand mixer, once the flour is incorporated, use the first setting and beat until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.  Add more all-purpose flour if needed.  Should be about 5-8 minutes.  Turn out onto floured work surface, knead a bit...

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and shape into a ball.)

Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl and turn to coat. 

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Cover and allow to rise until doubled in volume (45-60 minutes). 

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Punch down, shape into 1 or 2 rounds, and allow rest, covered, for 15 minutes.Knead in the reserved onion mixture.

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SHAPING

Shape into 1 or 2 round loaves.  Place on a rye flour or cornmeal-dusted baking sheet.

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Proof until doubled in size. 

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Dust the tops with additional all-purpose flour and cut decorative slashes.

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BAKING

Bake with steam in a preheated 375 degree oven for 35-45 minutes.  (For the steam, I just squirted water into the oven with a spray bottle.  There are better methods, but I didn't use them this time.)  If 1 large loaf is made, allow for additional oven time.  The bread is done when tapping the bottom with your fingertips produces a hollow thump.  Let cool on a wire rack.

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It looks kind of nice from above...

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And here you can see that it rose to a majestic inch and a half in height.  Actually, it sort of slumped down to that, because it was taller after the second rise.

But we've already gone over all of that.

And despite the obvious flaws, it still made some yummy sandwiches.

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Books of Food and Cooking

  • Theodora FitzGibbon: A taste of London: Traditional food
    Recipe mentioned: Crumpets. A bit of my history: Like "Great British Cooking" below, this belonged to my late grandmother. I like this book because of all the old photos interwoven with the traditional recipes. I also liked the flavor of this crumpet recipe better than the one in "Great British Cooking" - but I can't really say which recipe is more authentic, since I don't have firsthand knowledge of how a crumpet is REALLY supposed to taste. (***)
  • Jane Garmey: Great British Cooking: Wellkept Secret, A

    Jane Garmey: Great British Cooking: Wellkept Secret, A
    Recipe mentioned: Crumpets. A bit of my history: this originally belonged to my mom's mother. It's interesting to me that she had cookbooks about British cooking, as she was born and raised in London, and wouldn't she just KNOW how to cook like a Brit? And of course that's a totally ridiculous assumption, as people aren't just born knowing how to cook their native cuisine. Anyway, I've also made the Yorkshire pudding from this book, and it's just as good as the recipe my grandmother and mother had/have used all these years. So that's something. (***)

  • Dorie Greenspan: Baking: From My Home to Yours

    Dorie Greenspan: Baking: From My Home to Yours
    Recipe mentioned: As of today (4/10/08), only the Most Extraodinary Lemon Cream Tart. A bit of my history: Actually, more like the future - I've joined the group Tuesdays with Dorie - and so just about every Tuesday you can expect to see another recipe from this book. I've got a separate recipe category just for those posts, too. This is gonna be fun! (*****)

  • George Greenstein: Secrets of a Jewish Baker: Authentic Jewish Rye and Other Breads

    George Greenstein: Secrets of a Jewish Baker: Authentic Jewish Rye and Other Breads
    Recipe Mentioned: Potato Rye Bread with Onion and Caraway. A bit of my history: I bought this book years ago, when I was in the midst of either a breadmaking frenzy or a Judaism frenzy - or probably both at the same time. Though I messed up the posted recipe when I made it recently, I've baked plenty of other things from this book which have turned out fine. Clearly the problem with the Rye bread was mine and mine alone! (*****)

  • Charmaine Solomon: The Complete Asian Cookbook

    Charmaine Solomon: The Complete Asian Cookbook
    Recipes mentioned: Mutton Kari (Lamb Curry), Garam Masala. A bit of my history: I think we bought the hardcover version of this as a bargain book. It's a huge treasure trove of all dishes Asian. So much to explore...so little time. (*****)

  • Lynne Rossetto Kasper: The Italian Country Table: Home Cooking from Italy's Farmhouse Kitchens

    Lynne Rossetto Kasper: The Italian Country Table: Home Cooking from Italy's Farmhouse Kitchens
    Recipe mentioned: Apricot-Pistachio Pockets (Ravioli Dolci). A bit of my history: I have two of Ms. Kasper's books - this and her huge success - "The Splendid Table." I may have said this before, but I think somewhere in my soul there's some Italian in me. Something about the food resonates with me. I can't explain it - but there it is. (*****)

  • Janice A. Wilke (editor): For Days of Auld Lang Syne
    Sorry - you won't find this one anywhere. I have the only copy. Before I got married, my mother compiled recipes provided by family and friends on both Bill's side and my side of our soon-to-be-joined families. The result is a cornucopia of familiar and new recipes for everything from my sister's Cinnamon Toast to Lemon Sponge Pie, to a couple of Bill's mom's German Christmas cookies. The book is a treasure trove of ideas, and clearly a labor of love. (*****)
  • Editors of Cook's Illustrated Magazine: The Best Recipe

    Editors of Cook's Illustrated Magazine: The Best Recipe
    Recipe mentioned: American Pie Dough for Fruit Pies. A bit of my history: Our friend John gave this to me for Christmas in 2002. Inside he wrote "Jayne, I'm not quite sure this will help, as you are already the best cook..." A very kind and flattering inscription indeed. Anything produced by the Cooks Illustrated people is gold. I love their trial and error approach to finding these "Best Recipes" - and the explanation of what they did, what happened, and what ultimately worked best. (*****)

  • Bernard Clayton: Bernard Claytons New Complete Book of Breads

    Bernard Clayton: Bernard Claytons New Complete Book of Breads
    Recipe mentioned: Royal Hibernian Brown Loaf. A bit of my history: I bought this years ago while I was on a bread baking kick. Not really a kick. A reunion. Mr. Clayton's tome is 724 pages of recipes and tips and history and background and culture and back story - not including the index. The