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  • I've transplanted this year's gardening posts to a new spot - in the hope that they won't get lost amid all the cooking and food posts and stories of things my children have recently said or done.

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Chowders, Soups and Stews

March 08, 2008

A Mess of Pottage (Lentil Soup)

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I used to make this a LOT years ago.  I probably started making it when I was a vegetarian - the book it comes from is all vegetarian - and after making it once, apparently I started making it in larger and larger batches, because right next to the list of ingredients/measurements - there are columns with my increased amounts - for double, triple, and quadruple the recipe. 

It's really good, and even better, it's incredibly easy.

The recipe comes from an old (okay, 1975 - but the book is falling apart, so it seems older) small press cookbook entitled "Cooking with Conscience,"  by Alice Benjamin and Harriet Corrigan.  It was published by Vineyard Books in CT, and at the time this was published, it cost $2.00.  On the cover, it reads "A book for people concerned about world hunger."

There are 52 recipes in this slim volume.  The one I'm featuring is number Twenty-Two.  To be honest, I don't know if I ever bothered trying anything else besides this wonderful lentil dish. 

Anyway, here's what the authors wrote about this dish:

"We couldn't resist having one dish called "A Mess of Pottage."  According to some Biblical translations, Esau sold his birthright to his brother Jacob for "a mess of pottage."  Other translations say "bread and lentiles" and still others say "bread and lentil soup."  In any case, it was lentils and probably cooked with onions, butter, and a few herbs.  Who knows? -- this might even be somewhere close to the original.  (Except those were red lentils, and brown ones are easier for us to find.  And he certainly didn't add powdered milk.)  Serve with any whole grain bread to help complete the protein and a plate of raw vegetables such as carrot sticks and celerey.  Serves 3 or 4."

I served this for dinner with a salad of mixed greens, sliced fennel, fresh basil, and diced roasted chicken (left from the previous night's dinner), and a warm baguette, some olive oil, and a couple of cheeses.  Alex, predictably, didn't like it on sight.  Julia tried it, liked it, but didn't eat much.  My husband liked it eNORmously.  And I took my first spoonful and wondered why it's taken me so long to make this again. 

Ready?

Here's all you need:

1 cup lentils

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3 large onions, chopped (I sliced mine)

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(Oops!  Those darned onions - they made my eyes water and I couldn't see clearly.  I'll try again...)

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(That's better!)

1 clove garlic, minced

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1/2 stick butter or margarine

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1 tsp cumin powder

3 T dried parsley

1/2 tsp paprika

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2 tsp salt

3/4 cup powdered milk (I used liquid milk from the fridge.  I didn't have any powdered.)

And here's all you need to do:

Put lentils in large pot with a quart of water. 

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Bring to a boil and turn down to a simmer.  Meanwhile, cook onions and garlic in butter until golden

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and add them and all other ingredients,

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except the milk, to the soup. 

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Cook until lentils are tender and stir in powdered milk.

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Isn't that simple?  And lentils cook pretty quickly, so really, in the time it takes for the lentils to finish cooking, you can throw together a salad.  And if you start warming some bread when you start cooking the lentils, it'll be nice and crusty (and perfect for dunking) by the time everything is ready.  For very little cost or effort, you get a hearty, delicious, healthy meal.  Definitely worth trying.

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February 29, 2008

Leek and Potato Soup

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I love leeks.  I love everyone in the onion family, but I have a special affection for leeks.  I tried to describe why, but it sounded like really bad middle school creative writing, so I deleted it.   So we'll just skip that and move on to the cooking part.

I bought a couple bunches of leeks at the store earlier in the week, and potatoes, so that at some point this week I could throw together the soup.  It's one of the simplest things to make, and it's warm and comforting on a cold wintery evening.

The recipe I followed is from Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Vol. I., by Julia Child, Louisette Bertholle and Simone Beck.  It's the first entry in Chapter One - Soup.

Potage Parmentier (Leek or Onion and Potato Soup)

"Leek and potato soup smells good, tastes good, and is simplicity itself to make.  It is also versatile as a soup base; add water cress and you have a water-cress souop, or stir in cream and chill it for a vichyssoise.  To change the formula a bit, add carrots, string beans, cauliflower, broccoli, or anything else you think would go with it, and vary the proportions as you wish."

~~~~~

Here's what you need:

3-4 cups or 1 lb potatoes, Img_8164

peeled,

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and sliced.

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3 cups or 1 lb leeks,

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thinly sliced, including the tender green

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* A few things to keep in mind about leeks - first of all, you want to trim the darkest green parts away - easiest way is to cut them on an angle while you rotate the leek on your cutting board.  You can see that inside the darker parts the green is lighter and kind of yellowish - this part is okay to use.  The darkest part tends to be drier, kind of like the skin you peel off of an onion, only not AS dry. 

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Also, leeks tend to have dirt or sand in between their layers, and the best way to get rid of that is to slice the leek cross-wise

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and soak it all in a deep bowl of cold water.

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Swish the leeks around in the water to help loosen the dirt.  The leek will float, and the dirt and sand will sink to the bottom.

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And you'll also need

2 quarts of water

1 T salt

And that's IT.  How simple can you get?

Place everything in a 3-4 quart sauce pot

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and bring to a boil. 

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Drop the heat down, partially cover the pot and simmer for 40-50 minutes or until the vegetables are tender.

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Mash the vegetables with a fork or run them through a food mill - or use a food processor an immersion blender to puree everything.

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Taste it, and add more salt if you think it needs it, and add pepper to taste.  Ta da!  You're done!

Now, if I had thought ahead, I would have picked up a baguette to serve with the soup.  But I didn't think that far ahead, and I didn't have time to make bread, so I found a recipe for a Quick Onion Flat Bread in a little cookbook called "Fast Breads!" by Howard Early and Glenda Morris.  It was published in 1986 and I think it's now out of print.  I've posted that recipe after this one, in case you don't remember to get a baguette while you're buying the leeks.

Oh - and below - I swirled in some half & half to make it look pretty.  The book calls for whipping cream or sweet butter stirred in before serving, and a sprinkling of parsley on top, but I didn't sprinkle parsley.  Sorry. 

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Books of Food and Cooking

  • Theodora FitzGibbon: A taste of London: Traditional food
    Recipe mentioned: Crumpets. A bit of my history: Like "Great British Cooking" below, this belonged to my late grandmother. I like this book because of all the old photos interwoven with the traditional recipes. I also liked the flavor of this crumpet recipe better than the one in "Great British Cooking" - but I can't really say which recipe is more authentic, since I don't have firsthand knowledge of how a crumpet is REALLY supposed to taste. (***)
  • Jane Garmey: Great British Cooking: Wellkept Secret, A

    Jane Garmey: Great British Cooking: Wellkept Secret, A
    Recipe mentioned: Crumpets. A bit of my history: this originally belonged to my mom's mother. It's interesting to me that she had cookbooks about British cooking, as she was born and raised in London, and wouldn't she just KNOW how to cook like a Brit? And of course that's a totally ridiculous assumption, as people aren't just born knowing how to cook their native cuisine. Anyway, I've also made the Yorkshire pudding from this book, and it's just as good as the recipe my grandmother and mother had/have used all these years. So that's something. (***)

  • Dorie Greenspan: Baking: From My Home to Yours

    Dorie Greenspan: Baking: From My Home to Yours
    Recipe mentioned: As of today (4/10/08), only the Most Extraodinary Lemon Cream Tart. A bit of my history: Actually, more like the future - I've joined the group Tuesdays with Dorie - and so just about every Tuesday you can expect to see another recipe from this book. I've got a separate recipe category just for those posts, too. This is gonna be fun! (*****)

  • George Greenstein: Secrets of a Jewish Baker: Authentic Jewish Rye and Other Breads

    George Greenstein: Secrets of a Jewish Baker: Authentic Jewish Rye and Other Breads
    Recipe Mentioned: Potato Rye Bread with Onion and Caraway. A bit of my history: I bought this book years ago, when I was in the midst of either a breadmaking frenzy or a Judaism frenzy - or probably both at the same time. Though I messed up the posted recipe when I made it recently, I've baked plenty of other things from this book which have turned out fine. Clearly the problem with the Rye bread was mine and mine alone! (*****)

  • Charmaine Solomon: The Complete Asian Cookbook

    Charmaine Solomon: The Complete Asian Cookbook
    Recipes mentioned: Mutton Kari (Lamb Curry), Garam Masala. A bit of my history: I think we bought the hardcover version of this as a bargain book. It's a huge treasure trove of all dishes Asian. So much to explore...so little time. (*****)

  • Lynne Rossetto Kasper: The Italian Country Table: Home Cooking from Italy's Farmhouse Kitchens

    Lynne Rossetto Kasper: The Italian Country Table: Home Cooking from Italy's Farmhouse Kitchens
    Recipe mentioned: Apricot-Pistachio Pockets (Ravioli Dolci). A bit of my history: I have two of Ms. Kasper's books - this and her huge success - "The Splendid Table." I may have said this before, but I think somewhere in my soul there's some Italian in me. Something about the food resonates with me. I can't explain it - but there it is. (*****)

  • Janice A. Wilke (editor): For Days of Auld Lang Syne
    Sorry - you won't find this one anywhere. I have the only copy. Before I got married, my mother compiled recipes provided by family and friends on both Bill's side and my side of our soon-to-be-joined families. The result is a cornucopia of familiar and new recipes for everything from my sister's Cinnamon Toast to Lemon Sponge Pie, to a couple of Bill's mom's German Christmas cookies. The book is a treasure trove of ideas, and clearly a labor of love. (*****)
  • Editors of Cook's Illustrated Magazine: The Best Recipe

    Editors of Cook's Illustrated Magazine: The Best Recipe
    Recipe mentioned: American Pie Dough for Fruit Pies. A bit of my history: Our friend John gave this to me for Christmas in 2002. Inside he wrote "Jayne, I'm not quite sure this will help, as you are already the best cook..." A very kind and flattering inscription indeed. Anything produced by the Cooks Illustrated people is gold. I love their trial and error approach to finding these "Best Recipes" - and the explanation of what they did, what happened, and what ultimately worked best. (*****)

  • Bernard Clayton: Bernard Claytons New Complete Book of Breads

    Bernard Clayton: Bernard Claytons New Complete Book of Breads
    Recipe mentioned: Royal Hibernian Brown Loaf. A bit of my history: I bought this years ago while I was on a bread baking kick. Not really a kick. A reunion. Mr. Clayton's tome is 724 pages of recipes and tips and history and background and culture and back story - not including the index. The chapters and the recipes they contain are well organized and easy to follow, easy to understand, and inspiring. (*****)

  • Brinna B. Sands: The King Arthur Flour 200th Anniversary Cookbook/Dedicated to the Pure Joy of Baking

    Brinna B. Sands: The King Arthur Flour 200th Anniversary Cookbook/Dedicated to the Pure Joy of Baking
    Recipe mentioned: Irish Whiskey Soda Bread. A bit of my history: It's not so much a history as it is an everyday facet of my life. Not the book, specifically, but King Arthur Flour. Never Bleached, Never Bromated. I don't think I've ever bought any flour other than King Arthur, unless it was a less-popular kind of flour purchased from a small, organic mill. I receive the King Arthur flour catalog year-round. It's where I buy my 100-pack of half-sheet-pan sized parchment paper. I've been to their retail store in VT. I attended a bread baking seminar they sponsored years ago - with my mother and Bill's mother. King Arthur flour runs in my veins. Okay, not really. They'd be really clogged if that was happening. Anyway. I've made some of the muffin recipes in this book, probably a quick bread or two, and who knows what else. Everything has come out great. It's a huge book, very friendly in tone, and filled to overflowing. (*****)

  • Alice Benjamin and Harriett Corrigan: Cooking with Conscience
    Recipe Mentioned: A Mess of Pottage. A bit of my history: I think this was my mother's book originally and somehow I ended up with it. Published in 1975, the subtitle is "A book for people concerned about world hunger." So it's vegetarian and healthy and socially conscious. I need to go through this book again and try out some of the other recipes - I've only ever made the "mess of pottage." (****)