It doesn’t look like I think it’s supposed to look.
For French Fridays with Dorie this week we were to make a Tourteau de chèvre.
Now, despite what you might think, that doesn’t mean Cake of Goat. I don’t think anyone’s invented that one. Maybe a Pie of Goat – you know, like a chicken pot pie, or a shepherd’s pie – exists somewhere…but not Cake of Goat.
No, the cake is made with, among other things, goat cheese. Pretty interesting, huh?
And a bit more appetizing than a cake made of goat.
Anyway, Dorie describes the cake this way:
This creation is so unlike what we know as cheesecake in America that I hesitate to use the name for fear of misleading you. Unlike just about everything in the American cheesecake family, the tourteau is not soft, creamy, moist, or even rich. Instead, it’s a fairly dry cake (it’s most like a sponge cake) that you cut into wedges and eat out of hand.
Again, that doesn’t seem to describe my tourteau de chèvre at all.
So let’s see what I did.
First – I went to the store to get the goat cheese – the only ingredient I didn’t have at home. Now, I think this is part of the reason the cake didn’t turn out right.
I got to the cheese section at Stop & Shop and looked at the selection of chèvres available. There were two different brands of big enough logs (I needed nine ounces) and a bunch of smaller ones. But – as the hyper aware, born again crazy shopper that I am now, I wanted – if possible – to buy something made locally. Like, not in California or something.
We actually do have one certified dairy goat farm in Rhode Island. I remember them coming to the farmers market last summer, offering samples of their goat cheese and goat cheese spreads.
I was hoping to buy a log of chèvre from them, but didn’t see any.
And then – off to the right a bit – I saw their label! Little tubs of their goat cheese spreads, including little tubs that said “plain,” too!
So I bought two 7 ounce tubs – it’s never a bad thing to have some leftover cheese, right?
And I skipped home happily.
Okay, I drove.
But the thing is…
It looks more like a ricotta than the chèvre I was looking for. My fault for not looking a bit more closely at what was inside the containers.
The other thing…I tasted some – I love goat cheese – and…it doesn’t really taste all that goaty. And this is, apparently, a selling point for them. Some people don’t like the distinctive taste of goats milk cheeses.
But I do. And I was a little disappointed that this didn’t taste at all goat cheesy.
And I should have realized what the texture would be when I looked at the ingredients – goat milk, vinegar, and salt. Yep. That’ll give you a ricotta. Or, at least, a ricotta texture.
Now, my next stupid move was NOT to drain the cheese for a few hours (as Dorie wisely recommended for very fresh cheeses). I drained it for a little while, but nothing like a couple hours.
Here’s what I DID do.
I made the crust – here’s the only picture I took from that part of the job:
That’s the egg yolk before it got pulsed into the flour/sugar/salt/butter mixture.
I made the crust, shaped it into a flat ball and stuck it in the fridge.
Did a bunch of other things…and then it was time to make the filling. Here are the ingredients.
I rolled out the dough and pressed it into the springform pan. In retrospect I should have done this right away when I made the dough, so it would have had more time to chill before baking.
Time to whip the egg whites…pretty, aren’t they? I love the look of meringue.
It’s fun to play with.
Look! Stalactite and stalagmite!
Now, time to beat together yolks, goat cheese, sugar, vanilla, and cornstarch.
Here’s how that looked. Not as smooth and creamy as I think it should have looked. I’m assuming there was still too much liquid in the cheese.
Next up – folding the whites into the yolk/cheese mixture.
Did I not incorporate everything properly? Not sure.
Into the pan, and into the oven.
Annnnnnnnnnnd – out of the oven.
Hm. It didn’t puff up much, did it?
It looks pretty, but not like the picture in the book.
Pretty color, at least.
But it isn’t correct.
You can see a sort of smooth, custardy layer right above the crust. It’s kind of eggy in texture. And the upper cakey part? Pretty moist.
It tastes really, really good. Both kids and my husband liked it, too.
So I’ll call it a success.
To see how successful other bakers were, hop on over to the French Fridays list of links and check ‘em out!